Ljubljana - Slovenia
ISTRIA EXPRESS (nightrain) Budapest to Ljubljana
The exhibition Slovene Cows - Lara Ješe
Thought we’d share this unusual portfolio. Click here for more. The exhibition Slovene Cows provides an insight into Lara Jese's work as a painter and photographer over the last twelve years. The exhibition is conceived as a mosaic of series and solo pieces, the result of various perspectives on the cow, portraiture, family, tradition, generational trauma, and national identity. The artist created the first pieces for this exhibition project in Jama near Kranj, Slovenia, and at the art academies in Ljubljana and Leipzig, before continuing in Zurich and finally completing it at its origin, in Jama.
The Blog
Once upon a time there was this old couple who booked a night train from Budapest to Ljubljana. Now we are of a certain age that loves a throw back from time to time from days gone by, but at the same time like to think we are keeping up with the times. We had certainly been enjoying the modern trains in Germany that reached speeds of 250 KM! Anyway, this night train was a throw back to the 1980’s era. Our sleeping compartment interior was wooden and was built before the invention of air con we think. So the choices were, sleep in airless hot compartment or wrestle the window open for some fresh air.
We opted for the fresh..ish air. Initially it was OK..noisy but OK. After a few hours the train stopped to change the engine for reasons unknown to us. We now had diesel engine pulling us. Ooooo we were then rocked to sleep with the smell of diesel fumes wafting into our cabin. Oh and the rain that had started that was now getting our feet a little wet! Not much sleep was gained during the 9 and half hour journey. Simon graciously offered to take the top bunk but realised that the seat belt type thingmajig did not quite reach the bit it was supposed to latch onto. So, being the engineer that he is, he swiftly removed a boot lace and used that to bridge the difference and proclaimed “ Ta da! A false sense of security!”. Each time the train pulled to a stop I kept bracing myself for a thud, aka Simon being thrown off his rack. After 9 and half hours of the train and us rattling along, we arrived unhurt, but completely exhausted.
No chance of an early check or shower at the hotel so we dropped off our bags and through a sleepy haze wandered the streets of Ljubljana in search of some sustenance. It had recently rained here but for now it was dry which we were thankful for. We did try to get on another train to go somewhere reasonably close but most of the trains seemed to have been replaced by bus services due to the extensive construction going on at the station. So that was out of the question as we were not really compos mentis.
The Butchers' Bridge
The Butchers' Bridge is Ljubljana's love bridge. It is a place where countless lovers have symbolically padlocked their love and dropped the keys into the river Ljubljanica, which flows underneath.
The Butchers' Bridge occupies the site in the midst of the former butchers' booths and Brdar's creepy but interesting large statues and small sculptures of deformed little creatures sitting on the parapet somehow refer to the story of this past. The large statue standing on the Petkovškovo nabrežje side of the bridge depicts Prometheus, while the miniature statues on the parapet playfully allude to the activity that once went on in the butchers' vending booths
So we ended up stumbling upon a huge vegan festival in the main square. Simon had a vegan mango smoothie!!! - yup went out on a limb there!
We found an exhibition of images taken of recent wars in Gaza and Israel to name but a few. Paolo Pellegrin was the name to the journalist whose images we saw. Seeing these things on the television is one thing but to actually see a photograph taken by a person who was there feels so very different and hard to put into words.
We did find a darkened area, that was showing some video footage, with some seats. Gosh they looked so comfy and we did contemplate laying down to rest our tired eyes but thought better of it!
Harats Irish Bar
Finally we were able to check in. Showers and some shut eye followed in quick succession. By the time we woke a few hours later it was grey and raining quite heavily. So having donned our rain coats we headed out to find somewhere to eat. We ended up at an Irish bar….any port in any storm!
A self guided scavenger hunt was embarked upon the next morning. Sun was shining and we had slept well, so off we set…but first coffee..of course. The hunt had us finding our way to various landmarks and points of interest and then figuring out the puzzles via clues that we given for each stopping point. It was rather good and something fun and different to do. We did not realise that Greek mythology, Jason and the Argonauts, was closely tied to Slovenia. Plenty of dragon sculptures around too which initially seemed in contrast to the presence of many statues dedicated to poetry of love. We did 5 out of the 10 before stopping for some lunch and a few bevies before continuing with the mission. Simon found pleasure in flicking small bits of bread to the little sparrows that wanted to dine next to us. He also found much humour when the bread hit my head and the birds found it an extra challenge! At least they were not seagulls is all I can say as I am sure I would have been concussed!
Later we headed up to the castle for a gander. Entry was free as we were there for the views only. Not bad views but not the best we’ve seen this trip. There were views across the city that clearly showed the old and the new areas and the snowy mountain tops in the far distance.
Dinner this evening was sourced in a lovely restaurant. Simon wanted to head to Pops burger bar - beer and burgers but I wanted fine wine and table cloths. Lets be clear here, I had no intention of eating table cloths but the ambiance of a good restaurant was needed!
Julija Restaurant highly recomended
To sumamrise Ljubljana, it is a very small and walkable city. If we had more time here we would probably have taken a day trip out to Lake Bled and some mountains, but with limited time decided to explore the city.
Tomorrow we head to Trieste, Italy. We arrive late afternoon and the weather the following day is forecast to put a dampner, quite literally, on our plans to sit and soak up the sun. But we will have to wait and see.